A gentle breeze stirs the grass, causing the feathery tips to sway under the scorching sun. The savannah buzzes with life as our 4×4 halts. In the distance, flamingos gracefully navigate a shimmering lake. A pungent odor wafts into the vehicle. To our right, our knowledgeable guide Chambo indicates the remnants of an unfortunate wildebeest.
A white-backed vulture scavenges what remains of the carcass as we cautiously pass by.
Shortly after, we spot him. Just a few yards away, a majestic lion with a golden mane emerges from the sparse scrub, his mate reclining beside him. In a sudden motion, he mates with her, displaying teeth, a nip on her neck, and in an instant, it’s all over… I am left speechless.
This is the Serengeti – a realm of untamed beauty. As a novice safari enthusiast, I had no expectations. Perhaps a distant glimpse at best. Certainly not a front-row view of a scene fit for a documentary.
“Lions can mate over 200 times in a week,” Chambo whispers. “Frequently at the start, less often towards the end. They prioritize mating over food and become highly dangerous during the process.” Noted.
We silently wait, eyes fixed on the binoculars, and before long, we witness the spectacle once more. Having fulfilled his task, the lion saunters a few steps, flops down, and rolls onto his back, paws in the air. Content.
This was just one of the many extraordinary experiences during my five-day expedition in the Tanzanian Serengeti. Another poignant encounter involved witnessing The Great Migration, where thousands of zebra and wildebeest move together across the plains amidst the resonant calls of the wildebeests – a primal, discordant chorus that surely attracts every top predator in the vicinity.
“It’s one of nature’s most fascinating partnerships,” Chambo explains. The wildebeest rely on the zebras’ keen eyesight, while the zebras utilize the wildebeests’ olfactory prowess for navigation.
The intelligent zebras also understand the safety in numbers when surrounded by their less astute companions.
Another memorable moment was encountering a satiated hyena lumbering down the path ahead of us, causing our vehicle to slow to a crawl. Its distended belly suggested recent indulgence, making it stagger along in a food-induced stupor.
After such heart-pounding dramas, we retreated to the comfort of the newly established Serengeti Explorer by Elewana nestled amid the Nyaboro Hills in the western part of the national park.
Designed to harmonize with the surroundings, one could easily overlook its presence. And if you envision safaris as roughing it in tents with basic amenities, think again.
Inside, a different world unfolds – contemporary architecture featuring towering walls in black pebble-dash and sleek polished concrete, plush natural furnishings, reliable Wi-Fi, and all modern conveniences.
Guests are greeted upon return from dusty game drives with refreshing, fragrant towels at the entrance to the grand open-air lobby.
Every detail pays homage to the elemental grandeur of the landscape. The lodge spans two levels, each offering breathtaking views, ideal for unwinding with a gin and tonic at day’s end, or savoring breakfast and coffee as the sun ascends over the plain.
It occupies the site of a former camp that shuttered during the pandemic, revamped into a lavish yet accessible retreat featuring 74 rooms, a 115-foot infinity pool, café, two bars, restaurant, and a gift shop vending items supporting local communities and artisans.
The enclosed compound allows guests to explore the grounds with peace of mind, safeguarded 24/7 by local Maasai warriors adorned in vivid-colored attire and armed with spears.
However, nature asserts its presence. During an early morning game drive, we encountered clear signs of an elephant’s visit – uprooted trees, flattened foliage, and even a signpost toppled with the casual sweep of a trunk. On select nights, guests can relish the Boma – an atmospheric African barbecue set in a circular open-air enclosure.
Meat sizzles over open flames, infusing the air with tantalizing aromas of spice and smoke. More than a meal, it’s an immersive cultural journey. Guests indulge in traditional Swahili cuisine around a central firepit beneath the starlit sky, while Maasai hosts drum, dance, and perform ancient rituals.
Explorer also boasts the Divai wine cellar and dining room curated by head chef Abbas, showcasing a seven-course tasting menu paired with fine South African wines.
A standout dish, the mchicha na maharage (spinach and bean) soup, resonates with comfort, as Abbas reveals it mirrors the meal his mother lovingly prepared during his bouts of malaria.